Gazpacho is emblematic of Spanish cookery. It is a dish that says “I am Spain”. It is not simply a cool bowl of tomato juice. It isn’t always made from tomatoes. It isn’t always chilled. It isn’t always a soup; sometimes it’s a cool refreshing drink. It isn’t even always called gazpacho. In places like Córdoba it sometimes goes by the older name of salmorejo, or is said to be a descendant of salmorejo, a sauce base. It was often prepared in a vessel called a gazpachero, hence its name.